SELÇUK has been catapulted into the limelight of first-division tourism by its proximity to the ruins of Ephesus, and a number of other attractions within the city limits and around. The flavour of tourism here, though, is different from that at nearby Kusadasi, its inland location and ecclesiastical connections making it a haven for a disparate mix of backpackers and Bible-belters from every corner of the globe. Furthermore the beaches in and around Kusadasi are easily accessible from here on a short dolmus ride.

The hill of Ayasoluk (daily 8am-6.30pm; $2), the traditional burial place of St John the Evangelist, who died here around 100 AD, boasts the remains of a basilica built by Justinian that was one of the largest Byzantine churches in existence; various colonnades and walls have been re-erected, giving a hint of the building's magnificence. The tomb of the evangelist is marked by a slab at the former site of the altar; beside the nave is the baptistry, where religious tourists pose in the act of dunking as friends' cameras click. The virtually empty castle , 200m past the church, is closed. Just behind the tourist office, the Archeological Museum (daily 8.30am-noon & 1-5pm; $5) has galleries of finds from Ephesus, including the famous Artemis room, with two renditions of the goddess studded with multiple testicles (not breasts, as is commonly believed) and tiny figurines of real and mythical beasts, honouring her role as mistress of animals. Beyond the museum, 600m along the road toward Ephesus, are the scanty remains of the Artemision or sanctuary of Artemis, a massive Hellenistic structure that was considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, though this is hard to believe today. Within sight of here, the fourteenth-century Isa Bey Camii is the most distinguished of various Selçuk monuments.

At the base of the castle hill, a pedestrian precinct leads east to the train station . Following the main highway a bit further south brings you to the bus and dolmus terminal, opposite which is the tourist office (daily 8.30am-noon and 1-5pm; winter closed Sat & Sun). The majority of pensions and hotels will organize a free lift from the bus station if you call them on arrival, and many will arrange free lifts to Ephesus and some other local sights. Bear in mind that hotel touts in Selçuk can be aggressive, employing a gamut of tricks, including heavy pressure to buy something from a conveniently attached shop. The Barim, 1034 Sok 34 (tel 0232/892 6923; under £5/$8), an eccentric rambling old house, is reasonable, while the large Artemis Guest House "Jimmy's Place" , 1012 Sok 2 (tel 0232/892 1982, www.artemisguesthouse.com ; under £5/$8), has ensuite doubles (some with nice views), Internet access and veggie food, as well as offering lots of advice and help with getting around. Otel Ürkmez , Namik Kemal Cad 20 (tel 0232/892 6312, urkmez35@hotmail.com ; £5-10/$8-16), near the hamam , has ensuite facilities throughout and a roof terrace. More upmarket is the beautifully furnished, female-run Nilya , Atatürk Mah 1051 Sok 7 (tel 0232/892 9081; £15-20/$24-32), which offers beautiful views over the Artemision. Selçuk's campsite , Garden , lies just beyond the Isa Bey Camii and is well rated; alternatively, there's the Blue Moon/Develi , 9km west at Pamucak Beach, served by Selçuk-Kusadasi dolmuses . Best of the restaurants are in the pedestrianized grid of streets in the centre of town. Kösk pide on Zigberg Cad, and Ephesus on Namik Kemal Cad, are worth a try, as is the licensed Old House restaurant on Deniz Topel Cad. The hamam , next to the main police station, offers a cheap introduction to good Turkish scrub and massage: expect to pay about $9 for the full treatment (plus a small tip for the masseur).

23.05.2008